Bhavnagar is among those few towns of Saurashtra where you can still wake up to the sound of peacocks and prabhatias (morning bhajans). After being weaned on dust, noise and squalor of cities like Delhi and Ahmedabad, I found Bhavnagar quite quaint when I moved here in the early 90’s. Here life moved on at its most leisurely pace. People still travelled in tonga’s instead of zipping around in Marutis. The town and its people still retained the old world charm – ageing bungalows with their tiled roofs and wooden arches, nestling among groves of Neem and Copper pod trees, in whose foliage Painted strokes and Spoonbills bred every winter
One of my favourite haunts in Bhavnagar, was, and still is the old Gandhi Smriti Library. This is no slick British Council library of Ahmedabad or the posh American Centre library of Delhi with their computerized catalogues, whirring air conditioners and the air thick with silence and snobbery. Instead here you find old books with yellow pages and tattered margins giving off that aroma of nostalgia which only old books can give , creating an ambience of the bygone era – when Saurashtra was more proudly called ‘Kathiawar’, the land of Kathi Rajputs, shepherds and bards. On languid summer afternoons you can find yourself almost alone in the library with only the cooing of the pigeons on its wooden rooftop for company. Occasionally you might find an old Gandhian, clad in Khadi, peering into the bookshelves; he might even come and sit down beside you to inquire about your reading interests. As the afternoon slips into evening the old librarian comes ambling down to switch on the lights for you and to ask you whether you were doing fine!!
My friends living in metros often mock me for living in such a ‘not happening’ place, and I tell them that they are not aware of what they were missing. But like the rest of the country, Bhavnagar too is on the path of ‘development’. The old bungalows are being demolished to make way for multistory buildings and malls. The builder’s lobby has its greedy tongue licking away at the open fields and skies of Bhavnagar. With the trees – their homes destroyed the Strokes and the Spoonbills visit us in fewer numbers. Traffic has increased two-fold and I wonder how long will it take for Bhavnagar to turn into the monstrosity that our metros have come to represent...
The above write up has appeared in the 'Indian Express'
Monday, November 19, 2007
Pluralistic site under threat
Ironically all fundamentalists, Hindu and Muslim, share a general dislike for all things good and beautiful in this world. First it was the turn of the Taliban to tear down the beautiful sculptures of Lord Buddha at Bamiyan in Afghanistan and now it is the turn of the Saffron brigade in Gujarat to rally for the de-recognition of the unique Champaner-Pavagadh UNESCO heritage site – a 27sq km archeological park which represents pluralistic culture and traditions in a communally divided Gujarat. Its derecognition would mean that it will no longer be protected from vandalism, wear and tear and encroachment, ultimately resulting in its destruction.
About 45 km away from Vadodara city in Gujarat, scattered over 6 sq km around the Pavagadh Hill, lie assemblage of over 100 small and large monuments largely unexcavated and bearing archaeological, historic and living cultural heritage properties. The history of the Champaner-Pavagadh archaeological park dates back to pre-historic times, when it was first inhabited by the Stone Age man. Subsequently, early settlements were recorded in the 6th and 7th century AD when the site became part of the Maitrak dynasty ruling from Valabhi in Gujarat. With the decline of Maitraks in the 9th century, the region came under the influence of Gurajar Pratihar and Parmara rulers. It then passed into the hands of Khichi Chauhans of Rajasthan, the descendants of Prithviraj Chauhan in 13th century. The site’s Muslim period began with Sultan Mehmood Begada, who shifted his capital from Ahmedabad to Champaner fort to keep the Sultans of Mandu at bay. This was in the year 1484. This region came under the Mughals in the year 1535 when the fledgling town was plundered by Humayun. By the end of 16th century, the town gradually lost its eminence as an important center of commerce and governance. The architecture is a blend of Muslim and Hindu styles with some pre-Sultanate monuments having Jain motifs and temples. The Muslim monuments, mostly built by Mehmood Begada, like the Jami Masjid, Nagina Masjid, Kevda, Lila Gumbaj are typical of the Sultanate architecture with medieval Hindu influence, attributed mainly to Hindu artisans. The site includes, among other vestiges, fortifications, palaces, religious buildings, residential precincts, agricultural structures and water installations, from the 8th to the 14th centuries. This site is the only complete and unchanged Islamic pre-Mughal city in India. The Kalika Mata Temple on top of the Pavagadh Hill is considered to be an important shrine, attracting large numbers of Hindu pilgrims throughout the year.
This site was given the status of World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2004 after 22 years of persistent effort by a Vadodara based NGO, Heritage Trust, led by a noted architect – Karan Grover. However, a debate is currently raging among the pro-heritage and anti-heritage lobbies, the latter being largely fueled by Niraj Jain, a BJP member from Vadodara, who is advocating for the de-recognition of this archeological park as a World Heritage site. In spite of the obvious advantages to the local people from the world heritage site status of this area, which include strengthening of the local economy due to increased tourist influx and consequent reduction in the labour migration to surrounding cities, the anti-heritage lobby is complaining against the restrictions put on construction of commercial and residential structures in the protected zone, lack of local consultation, and they feel that Muslim monuments are getting more attention than the Kalika Mata temple, the latter complaint has obvious communal overtones.
Ironically while the ani-heritage lobby led by a BJP member is demanding a de-recognition of this place as a World Heritage site, the much touted ‘Vibrant Gujarat’ website of the Gujarat government proudly proclaims the inclusion of "Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park" to Unesco's World Heritage List as another feather in the cap for the Modi government !!
Monday, October 8, 2007
Twin Nightmares
‘As I entered the dimly lit corridor, the stench of human excreta hit me. This combined with the dampness in the air, weighed down on my consciousness like a manic depression. The feeling stuck to my senses for days later like a stain that would not wash off. Wandering around aimlessly along the long stretch of the corridor were the inmates – blank faces, unwashed bodies, lice infested hair. Some gazed at me with frenzied eyes – reflecting a mind at conflict with itself.
I was visiting one of our country’s mental asylums to see a recently admitted relative – a young girl called Chetna. Her aging parents, no longer able to cope up with her violent bouts, had no choice but to temporarily admit her here while they looked for a better place. An ‘asylum’ was a misnomer for a place that was more like a cage than a shelter, where the mentally insane were ‘put away’ from the ‘normal’ society. Under funded and under staffed, like most government institutions, this too was run with equal apathy and incompetence.
If there is anything worse than insanity it is partial insanity. Chetna, like many other inmates, lived on the edge of reality – at times conscious of her surroundings, the filth and the stench, the insane world of her fellow inmates; and at times withdrawing into her schizophrenic world of hallucinations, depressions and uncontrollable anger. I saw her sitting in one corner talking to herself and then break into a mocking laughter. Perhaps she knew something that we did not; perhaps she found our world crazier than her own.
It is a general belief that it matters little how one treats an insane person since they are barely in their senses. On the contrary, patients like Chetna live through twin nightmares. The inner created by her schizophrenic mind and the outer, created by an insensitive society.
Fortunately for Chetna, her parents found a shelter home for her run by an NGO – a much saner and humane place. However for the remaining inmates of the mental asylum there is no escape from the twin nightmares of their real and schizophrenic worlds.
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Trip to the hills
Foot hills of Himalayas - Dec. 2003
We were on a short holiday at the foothills of the Himalays.The night saw us driving through the winding road, from Dehradun to Rishikesh… the road was unlit with the forest on either side…as if waiting and watching….and suddenly we sighted …half hidden among the night shadows a mother elephant with two calves…on the edge of the road...
The forest guest house at Rishikesh, where we were lodged, stands on the banks of the Bhagirathi…amidst the chilling fog that hung in the night air…we could hear the roar of the river…as we took a post dinner walk along the guest house’s driveway. We were asked not to wander too far into the darkness, as stray leopards were known to prowl in that area at night. Next day we went rafting and kayaking on the glacial waters of Bhagirathi. Crystal blue freezing waters, flowing amid lush green peaks…meandering like a blue serpent - sometimes flowing calmly…sometimes gushing and roaring over rapids….rafting over the rapids was an onslaught on the senses…. We also took a dip in the freezing waters….with life jackets tied to our chests and skin suits underneath….I have never felt so cold in my life before….the lungs inside my chest seem to freeze and I could hardly breath…
Next day we went to Rajaji National Park. It is huge and has a diversity of landscapes. Our jeep was following a dried river bed…on the white sands along the river bed we sighted elephant foot prints…a group of chital would suddenly appear from nowhere..a bulky wild boar..his fur coarse and dirty…small tusks sprouting out of the sides of his mouth. He continued digging the earth unconcerned about our presence. At places the jungle was so dense that the sunlight could barely filter through…at places it opened into dry scrub…tussoks of giant grasses and weeds growing along dried river banks…a Gujjar settlement…. silence and stillness
everywhere..occasionally punctuated with the cry of a bird somewhere in the bushes…sunlight would penetrate in streaks through gaps left by fallen trees…old and ancient….as ancient as life….to die and melt back into the furnace of life and death. We wandered in the forest for two hours and then returned to civilization reluctantly.
We were on a short holiday at the foothills of the Himalays.The night saw us driving through the winding road, from Dehradun to Rishikesh… the road was unlit with the forest on either side…as if waiting and watching….and suddenly we sighted …half hidden among the night shadows a mother elephant with two calves…on the edge of the road...
The forest guest house at Rishikesh, where we were lodged, stands on the banks of the Bhagirathi…amidst the chilling fog that hung in the night air…we could hear the roar of the river…as we took a post dinner walk along the guest house’s driveway. We were asked not to wander too far into the darkness, as stray leopards were known to prowl in that area at night. Next day we went rafting and kayaking on the glacial waters of Bhagirathi. Crystal blue freezing waters, flowing amid lush green peaks…meandering like a blue serpent - sometimes flowing calmly…sometimes gushing and roaring over rapids….rafting over the rapids was an onslaught on the senses…. We also took a dip in the freezing waters….with life jackets tied to our chests and skin suits underneath….I have never felt so cold in my life before….the lungs inside my chest seem to freeze and I could hardly breath…
Next day we went to Rajaji National Park. It is huge and has a diversity of landscapes. Our jeep was following a dried river bed…on the white sands along the river bed we sighted elephant foot prints…a group of chital would suddenly appear from nowhere..a bulky wild boar..his fur coarse and dirty…small tusks sprouting out of the sides of his mouth. He continued digging the earth unconcerned about our presence. At places the jungle was so dense that the sunlight could barely filter through…at places it opened into dry scrub…tussoks of giant grasses and weeds growing along dried river banks…a Gujjar settlement…. silence and stillness
everywhere..occasionally punctuated with the cry of a bird somewhere in the bushes…sunlight would penetrate in streaks through gaps left by fallen trees…old and ancient….as ancient as life….to die and melt back into the furnace of life and death. We wandered in the forest for two hours and then returned to civilization reluctantly.
Amsterdam trip - Sept. 2003
I'm back from Amsterdam. Had a great time and met a lot of interesting people.
An old Dutch aqaintance who had been working on the anti-Tehri dam movement in Garhwal, took me to visit a samll fishing village - Vollendam, near Amsterdam :
The sky was overcast as we drove through the Dutch countryside. Rain drops drew transparent streaks on the misty wind sheild. The green fields were dotted with black and white Jersey cows that sat heavily mulching away, an occassional wind mill passed by, its fan swinging lazily in the cold afternoon air . Vollendam was a small village with its quaint traditional Dutch houses which sat huddled in one line. Laced curtains hung on the small glasswindows. An occasional bloom of flowers hung over some doors and windows.I spend some time sitting on a bench at the edge of thesea-lake. As the waves lapped close to my feet, gulls flew overhead screaming and small sailing and fishing boats bobbed and drifted by.
I was staying in Amsterdam with a Canadian couple...Derek and Emily. Derek has been studying the fishing communities of Gujarat and speaks Gujarati quite well.Derek's house was very interesting. It is actually owned by an artist from Columbia whose paintings and black and white photographs adorned the walls.The b&w photos seem to a have a distinct touch of Cartier Bresson. My room was on the top floor which had a wooden slanting roof and through its beams the afternoon light would fall in streaks. One of the rooms was full of musical instruments and was being used by a Cuban band for their practice sessions ! Amsterdamhas a lot of music and musical bands. This Columbian artist with his Dutch wife were away in Spain and had lent the house to Derek and Emily for a couple months.
Met a lot of interesting people at the conference I was attending -a lady from the DomincanRepublic studying the small fishermen there, a fisheries Prof. from Iran, a lady from Ghana who had encountered the civil war and soldiers with guns during her research. I also met a Portugese professor whose father used to serve in Goa during the Portugese occupation. I have visited in New York and New Jersey during my school days but the urban culture of Amsterdam, and perhaps also other European capitals, seem to be much more interesting and diverse than that of any American cities, including the grafftitti on the walls !! I found the youth from the colored communityof Amsterdam very interesting in the way they wore their hair and clothes.The deep guttural Dutch and German and the elegant French languages too, seem to capture a lot of passion as compared to the empty drawl of American English.
I'm back from Amsterdam. Had a great time and met a lot of interesting people.
An old Dutch aqaintance who had been working on the anti-Tehri dam movement in Garhwal, took me to visit a samll fishing village - Vollendam, near Amsterdam :
The sky was overcast as we drove through the Dutch countryside. Rain drops drew transparent streaks on the misty wind sheild. The green fields were dotted with black and white Jersey cows that sat heavily mulching away, an occassional wind mill passed by, its fan swinging lazily in the cold afternoon air . Vollendam was a small village with its quaint traditional Dutch houses which sat huddled in one line. Laced curtains hung on the small glasswindows. An occasional bloom of flowers hung over some doors and windows.I spend some time sitting on a bench at the edge of thesea-lake. As the waves lapped close to my feet, gulls flew overhead screaming and small sailing and fishing boats bobbed and drifted by.
I was staying in Amsterdam with a Canadian couple...Derek and Emily. Derek has been studying the fishing communities of Gujarat and speaks Gujarati quite well.Derek's house was very interesting. It is actually owned by an artist from Columbia whose paintings and black and white photographs adorned the walls.The b&w photos seem to a have a distinct touch of Cartier Bresson. My room was on the top floor which had a wooden slanting roof and through its beams the afternoon light would fall in streaks. One of the rooms was full of musical instruments and was being used by a Cuban band for their practice sessions ! Amsterdamhas a lot of music and musical bands. This Columbian artist with his Dutch wife were away in Spain and had lent the house to Derek and Emily for a couple months.
Met a lot of interesting people at the conference I was attending -a lady from the DomincanRepublic studying the small fishermen there, a fisheries Prof. from Iran, a lady from Ghana who had encountered the civil war and soldiers with guns during her research. I also met a Portugese professor whose father used to serve in Goa during the Portugese occupation. I have visited in New York and New Jersey during my school days but the urban culture of Amsterdam, and perhaps also other European capitals, seem to be much more interesting and diverse than that of any American cities, including the grafftitti on the walls !! I found the youth from the colored communityof Amsterdam very interesting in the way they wore their hair and clothes.The deep guttural Dutch and German and the elegant French languages too, seem to capture a lot of passion as compared to the empty drawl of American English.
Korea Chronicles I
May 2006, Dae-jeon, S.Korea
Dae-jeon lies in a valley, surrounded by hills on all sides. The people here seem to be fond of trees and flowers which abound in every street and corner. The campus where my husband, Razi, works is especially green, and remindes me of the FRI campus in Dehra Dun - dense cluster of trees line roads and side walks, damp dark corners covered with moss and ferns, lichens and moss cloth the trunks of old trees whose barks are peeling off. It is spring time now, and the trees wear a deep green foliage, most plants are in bloom and young cones hang on the pine trees.
Sometimes it rains and with the rain comes a light haze which hangs above the river and hill tops in the early hours and evenings. In the silence of the evenings when most of the people have left the campus, one can hear the cry of the Golden oriole among the trees or catch a glimpse of the balck and white magpie.
Except for the office and school goers, most of the streets and roads are deserted during the day time. With the approaching dusk, the nocturnal denizens of the town begin to stir. As the night lights go on, people, young and old begin to spill out of the many restraurants and bars. Some of them are too drunk to walk straight. Smoking too is quite common here. The western influence is all prevading. I have yet to see a korean in a traditional dress. The night life lasts upto 1 or 2 in the morning.
Among the far east and south east asian races, I think the Korean and Japanese women are the most beautiful - with almond shaped faces and relatively sharp noses, slender neck and shoulders and a pearl white flawless complexion. They seem to posses a very delicate elf-like beauty.
Dae-jeon lies in a valley, surrounded by hills on all sides. The people here seem to be fond of trees and flowers which abound in every street and corner. The campus where my husband, Razi, works is especially green, and remindes me of the FRI campus in Dehra Dun - dense cluster of trees line roads and side walks, damp dark corners covered with moss and ferns, lichens and moss cloth the trunks of old trees whose barks are peeling off. It is spring time now, and the trees wear a deep green foliage, most plants are in bloom and young cones hang on the pine trees.
Sometimes it rains and with the rain comes a light haze which hangs above the river and hill tops in the early hours and evenings. In the silence of the evenings when most of the people have left the campus, one can hear the cry of the Golden oriole among the trees or catch a glimpse of the balck and white magpie.
Except for the office and school goers, most of the streets and roads are deserted during the day time. With the approaching dusk, the nocturnal denizens of the town begin to stir. As the night lights go on, people, young and old begin to spill out of the many restraurants and bars. Some of them are too drunk to walk straight. Smoking too is quite common here. The western influence is all prevading. I have yet to see a korean in a traditional dress. The night life lasts upto 1 or 2 in the morning.
Among the far east and south east asian races, I think the Korean and Japanese women are the most beautiful - with almond shaped faces and relatively sharp noses, slender neck and shoulders and a pearl white flawless complexion. They seem to posses a very delicate elf-like beauty.
Korea Chronicles II
May 2005,Seoul, S.Korea
Seoul is like a drained down version of New York – a city throbbing with life, skyscrapers, busy subways, exotic restaurants serving exotic dishes from almost all over the world, concerts and art shows being held everyday by artists from all parts of the world, world class stadiums, theatres and museums. A very colorful nightlife and city lights. The downtown area with its flea markets, pick pocketeers and street walkers. There is also a place called Itaewon. It’s a residential cum bazaar build around the settlements of the foreigners who have live in Seoul – Americans from the nearby US army base, Indians, Philipinos, Chinese, Mongolians, Bangladeshis, Europeans, North Koreans….
There are quite a few Indian restaurants – 'Chakra' that serves Mughlai, and South Indian. There is also a Nepali restaurant here!
We visited the War Memorial – it depicts the Korean war between N. and S. Korea that took place in the 1940s in all its details and vividness – it also depicts wars in Korea down the ages – real weapons, armaments and ammunition used along with the gear and dress worn, various modes of documentation and communications used. It’s a huge lay out and a lot of resources and research seems to have been put into it. We saw life size models of refugee colonies, people displaced by the war, historical footage. The memorial itself is housed inside a huge complex whose architectural design resembles the colossal Roman structures. ( I will be uploading the photos soon).
Next stop was the Folk Museum and Palace – again very interesting. I could have spent the entire day in this museum. It housed detailed depiction of the culture and history of S.Korea over the years including calligraphy, religion, architecture, house hold and agricultural tools, food and traditional dishes including kimchi – it is actually a spicy side dish consisting largely of pickled Chinese cabbage, spring onion, fish sauce, garlic, ginger, all fermented together in salt water. Kimchi is supposed to contain vitamins and minerals especially certain beneficial bacteria (lactobacilli) that aid digestion. There are over 100 varieties of Kimchi using different vegetables. Another interesting food is a kind of Korean ‘sattu’ it contains a mixture of dehydrated and powdered shrimp, ginseng, algae, herbs, some vegetables, red rice and soyabeans. You just have to add water and sugar to it and drink it. It appears to be a very healthy wholesome food. We also went on top of the Seoul tower, which is supposed to be the second highest structure in Asia. It was built on a 262 meter peak, the tower reaches to 480 meters above sea level. The observation platform of the tower is at 370 meters above sea level; 2 elevators cover 135-meter height in 30 secs to reach observation platform from the base.
Of course the biggest blast especially for the kids was the Lotte world in Seoul, where we spent an entire day – screaming down the roller coasters, giant swings and drops. Danish was scared out of his wits by ‘The Pharaoh’s fury’: it’s a kind of a theme adventure which takes you back to the times when the pyramids and its mysteries and curses were being discovered and suffered. I think that it was very well done. At one point there is this rickety-rackety jeep that takes you down through the underground chambers of some pyramid and at one point all the fires burning along the dark corridors suddenly go out and the jeep plunges into a dark abyss – a bottomless pit, boy, that scared me too!!!
We traveled back to Dae –Jeon from Seoul in RTX train, which again is the second fastest train in Asia with a maximum speed of 300km/hour (I think !!).
Seoul is like a drained down version of New York – a city throbbing with life, skyscrapers, busy subways, exotic restaurants serving exotic dishes from almost all over the world, concerts and art shows being held everyday by artists from all parts of the world, world class stadiums, theatres and museums. A very colorful nightlife and city lights. The downtown area with its flea markets, pick pocketeers and street walkers. There is also a place called Itaewon. It’s a residential cum bazaar build around the settlements of the foreigners who have live in Seoul – Americans from the nearby US army base, Indians, Philipinos, Chinese, Mongolians, Bangladeshis, Europeans, North Koreans….
There are quite a few Indian restaurants – 'Chakra' that serves Mughlai, and South Indian. There is also a Nepali restaurant here!
We visited the War Memorial – it depicts the Korean war between N. and S. Korea that took place in the 1940s in all its details and vividness – it also depicts wars in Korea down the ages – real weapons, armaments and ammunition used along with the gear and dress worn, various modes of documentation and communications used. It’s a huge lay out and a lot of resources and research seems to have been put into it. We saw life size models of refugee colonies, people displaced by the war, historical footage. The memorial itself is housed inside a huge complex whose architectural design resembles the colossal Roman structures. ( I will be uploading the photos soon).
Next stop was the Folk Museum and Palace – again very interesting. I could have spent the entire day in this museum. It housed detailed depiction of the culture and history of S.Korea over the years including calligraphy, religion, architecture, house hold and agricultural tools, food and traditional dishes including kimchi – it is actually a spicy side dish consisting largely of pickled Chinese cabbage, spring onion, fish sauce, garlic, ginger, all fermented together in salt water. Kimchi is supposed to contain vitamins and minerals especially certain beneficial bacteria (lactobacilli) that aid digestion. There are over 100 varieties of Kimchi using different vegetables. Another interesting food is a kind of Korean ‘sattu’ it contains a mixture of dehydrated and powdered shrimp, ginseng, algae, herbs, some vegetables, red rice and soyabeans. You just have to add water and sugar to it and drink it. It appears to be a very healthy wholesome food. We also went on top of the Seoul tower, which is supposed to be the second highest structure in Asia. It was built on a 262 meter peak, the tower reaches to 480 meters above sea level. The observation platform of the tower is at 370 meters above sea level; 2 elevators cover 135-meter height in 30 secs to reach observation platform from the base.
Of course the biggest blast especially for the kids was the Lotte world in Seoul, where we spent an entire day – screaming down the roller coasters, giant swings and drops. Danish was scared out of his wits by ‘The Pharaoh’s fury’: it’s a kind of a theme adventure which takes you back to the times when the pyramids and its mysteries and curses were being discovered and suffered. I think that it was very well done. At one point there is this rickety-rackety jeep that takes you down through the underground chambers of some pyramid and at one point all the fires burning along the dark corridors suddenly go out and the jeep plunges into a dark abyss – a bottomless pit, boy, that scared me too!!!
We traveled back to Dae –Jeon from Seoul in RTX train, which again is the second fastest train in Asia with a maximum speed of 300km/hour (I think !!).
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)